Day 19 - 25 September 2009 - 72 miles

What a beautiful day! I left Inverness under mostly sunny skies which lasted the whole day through! The wind which has been my regular companion was nowhere to be found today. I have been so lucky this trip that I hate to tempt fate by commenting on it but there you are! Tanked up last night on some fine ale so carbohydrate levels not an issue today.

Rode west along the Moray Firth to the village of Beauly for the first coffee stop. Then a brief visit to wander about the Beauly Priory. Is it just me or is the church in serious decline in Britain?

Rode east along the north side of the Cromarty Firth (ain't that poetic fate?) through Muir of Ord, Conan Bridge, Dingwall, Evanton, Alness and into Tain where I stopped for lunch. Actually, 'lunch' was just an excuse to pay a visit to the holy ground - Glen Morangie distillery.

I didn't do the tour as it took 90 minutes and I had a 72 mile day. However, I did stop to replenish necessary stores. Something special to drink upon arrival at John O' Groats ... you know ... to celebrate!

A lovely lady working the sales counter assured me they had plenty of special things suitable for a celebration. I believed her but explained my dilemma where size and weight were concerned. Upon learning that I was riding LEJOG solo, she told me to stay put a moment and disappeared into a back room. Returning shortly with 3-double dram jars of different special whiskeys, she placed them in a bag and wouldn't take a farthing! I told her she was an angel and the first tipple would be drunk in her honor! Stowed the supplies and pressed on.

Continued northwest along the Dornoch Firth through Edderton, Ardgay and stopped to rest me bum and check the e-mail. A buddy in the states who had been receiving daily updates commented on how much he loved the village names - John O' Groats being his favorite. 'Well, Barney, you won't believe this,' I told him, 'but right now I'm takin' a bum break in Bonar Bridge!' Male adolescents are chortling the world over!

A short distance later, I came upon Carbisdale Castle. Built in 1917, it was the last castle built in Scotland and today is an elegant youth hostel. Then a long climb over a pass and arrived knackered in Lairg around 17:30. Secured lodging and headed for the pub.

That's when the trouble started...

Strolled over to the Thistle Lounge for a pint. 3 gents where sitting at the bar. I asked the barkeep if there was anything left to drink or had this lot already drank him dry? Once they sorted through my Cockney accent, they twigged straight away that here was a guest from parts afar.

I had barely begun to drink my first pint when . "Would you have a dram with that?" one asked. "Sure!" I quickly replied. "Give him a Cragganmore," the barkeep was instructed. (T'was a luvley 12 year old!)

After repaying his kindness with a drink, another spry gent named Andy, told the barkeep to give him an empty glass. He strolled out to his car and reappeared with a healthy double dram of whiskey. "Try that," I was instructed. I did and, Lord, what a fabulous beverage! When I asked him what it was, he told me to come out to his car where he showed me the bottle - Whyte & Mackay's 'Old Luxury' - a wonderful 19 year old whiskey.

Sitting on the backseat of his vehicle was a small wooden boat - approx 4ft from bow to stern and 1.5ft at the beam - which he had specially built to carry a good fishing buddy's ashes out on Loch Shin for a Viking-style funeral. Equipped with an electric motor, 2 small oars and a small fishing rod, it was a remarkable bit of craftsmanship and a wonderful gesture of friendship. "So you are going to shoot flaming arrows at it?", I asked. Andy laughed and replied, "Nay, we'd NEVER hit it! I'll set a wee fire in the bow, put my mate's ashes here in the middle and send it out in the loch on Saturday." Now there is a good friend!

All the Highland hospitality was having the predictable effect. I quickly ordered some food and was told that it would have to be consumed in the dining room. I beat a hasty retreat from the bar, took my dinner in solitude. Sneaking out the side door, I returned my B&B safe from more hospitality. A most memorable evening... I think!

Cheers, Faithful Readers!