Day 20 - 26 September 2009 - 77 miles

Well, all the talk of 'it just gets better as you head north' was spot on! This is one of the best days I have ever had whilst riding a bicycle! I left Lairg around 09:00 on single-track road under partly cloudy skies with lots of bright sun-shiny bits. Rode along the Loch Shin and then into mixed moor and pine forest country.

The first hour was marked by heavy side winds but I hardly noticed. In fact, I'm not sure my wheels were even touching the pavement! The culmination of wonderful days in the saddle through spectacular country and John O' Groats so close... It was incredible! The iPod playing great tunes, the clouds disappearing and the panoramic vistas... God, it was fabulous!

Stopped at the first bit of civilization I encountered at Crask Inn near the base
of Ben Klibrek. Had a coffee and took this picture of the Millenium Marker. Whilst relaxing at the inn, another solo End-To-End rider, Colin Jones, came riding in for a cuppa. We compared routes, swapped stories for a bit and I set off.

The next 6 miles were magical. Fresh pavement, great tunes, a tail wind, combined with sun beaming down on golden moorland and glistening off the creek was an intoxicating combination. I suffered from a facial condition known as HSEG - a huge shit-eating grin! Then I came around a corner at Altnaharra where I got my first breathtaking glimpse of Loch Naver. Whilst taking a photo stop, I wondered if Colin might be suffering from the same facial condition. I positioned myself with camera at the ready and waited. Sure enough, as he rode into my viewfinder, I confirmed that HSEG was contagious!

We rode together the rest of the day. It was nice to have someone to share the road with after so many solo days on the trail. Proceeded north along the western shore of Loch Naver, followed the River Naver through Leckfurrin, Inernaver, and Achina with negligible wind and more of that glorious sunshine. Fantastic conditions and the miles clicked off rapidly. Before you knew it, we were pulling into Bettyhill on the northern coast of Scotland. It was wonderful to see the surf breaking along the shore!

After lunch at Bettyhill (where my original itinerary specified a stop for the night) I decided to keep riding with Colin. The day was sublime, the company was fine, the wind was now at our backs and the fever was upon me.

We rode on to Thurso where I secured lodging. Colin rode on to John O' Groats to achieve a 9-day passage (1,001.01 miles for his route). He's coming back to Thurso to meet up with his wife and 2 boys and will do a Family Photo Finish tomorrow. Me, I'm saving the finish for my 55th birthday present!

Tomorrow! Tomorrow!
I'll make it! Tomorrow!
Its only 21 miles a-way!

Cheers, Gentle Readers!